A Downtown Star Goes to the Beach
WATER GRILL has opened on Ocean Avenue in Santa Monica. It’s not quite as elegant as the downtown version, but the food is terrific. Start with the fresh raw bar; clams, scallop and multiple oyster varieties. They are all so fresh it’s as if someone hauled them out of the sea five minutes ago. Then try the uni toasts, fresh sea urchin on toasted brioche. Another killer starter is the Maryland blue crab cake. Tender, fresh crab meat with no filler. Main courses feature perfectly sautéed soft shell crabs, tender, moist Pacific swordfish with eggplant and exceptional Brittany dover sole. For dessert there’s a lovely caramel bread pudding among other temptations. My only quibble with the new WATER GRILL is the noise level, but I was enjoying the food so much, who needs to talk?